Favorite Places: Vieques

Island fever may be taking over as we venture to the gorgeous island of Vieques, the second featured favorite place in the series.  Vieques is one of the three islands that make up the Spanish Virgin Islands or Puerto Rico as we know them today which is comprised of the islands of Puerto Rico as the main island and two, smaller sister islands of Culebra and Vieques.

Vieques, located about seven miles off the eastern coast of Puerto Rico, is a true off-the-beaten path destination.  There are only a handful of accommodations, most of which are guesthouses, and everything runs on island time.  It is a perfect destination to relax, unwind and reconnect with the beautiful world around you.  

We actually found this island through countless hours of research.  Thankfully, that is one of my stress relievers so I very much enjoy learning about new places and crafting my must-visit lifetime list.  A real advantage to Vieques is that it is fairly straight-forward to get to despite it's off the beaten path feel.  From Florida, it was a simple flight to San Juan and you won't need a passport (in case that might be a concern), about a 45 minute taxi ride to Fajardo and then a $2 ferry trip that lasted about an hour or so.  It was a pleasant way to relax after flying and taxiing to the port town.  The water is an amazing deep blue and the views are an added treat.  Upon arrival at the ferry dock in Vieques, you can walk or catch a taxi.  It's important to note that this is a small, rugged island so a little pre-planning can go a long way.  We stayed at the only "big" hotel at the time which has since been converted to a W.    

If you are comfortable in a rustic, dare I say rural, island adventure then Vieques is for you.  The beauty surrounds you on this small, lush island (about 12 miles by 5 miles) and offers many outdoor activities from beaches to emerald rolling hills.  The United States Navy had control of about half the island for upward of 50 years.  The area that once was off limits to folks outside of the Navy has been turned into the largest wildlife refuge in the Caribbean.  Known now as the Vieques Wildlife Refuge, it boasts numerous spectacular beaches accessible on roads best suited for a 4x4 jeep.  But the effort and bouncy ride that it takes to arrive at one of these hidden coves or bays is definitely worth it.  You are often the only one on the beach you visit.  I think the most crowded - and I use that term lightly - beach we visited had four other couples on it.  Just keep you eye out - this section of the island was used as target practice and every once in awhile a bomb is still found there. 

If food is on your mind or you just enjoy traveling to destinations with a tasty local fare, Vieques would also be for you.  I don't think we had one sup-par meal.  Tropical juices are readily available.  My personal favorite meal was mofongo and plantains.  The Esperanza is the beachfront scene.  Nestled along the bay, it offers live music, restaurant row and fun beach bars.  Although we enjoyed stopping in there, the food stands and small, tucked away restaurants found around the island were our favorite.   I regret I didn't do a better job jotting some notes during our trip but c'est la vie.  To me, a rule of thumb when traveling is trying new things and getting out of the routine and, in some cases, the comfort zone.  Rarely are you not rewarded for stepping past what's easy.  

I would be remise if I didn't include a few of my favorite things about Vieques beside its raw beauty and tasty vittles.  The wild horses are a real treat to the experience.  Heards of these horses, descendants from the Spanish colonial times, still remain in pockets around the island.  They've become smaller over the years due to available resources but they are a sight to see.  You also would be right to keep a keen eye on the road when driving.  These bad boys sometimes like to just cruise right in front of you while you are on the open road.  We had several heart attack moments ourselves when coming up over hills and around bends in the road.  Word to the wise, keep you eyes open for these guys.  

Maybe the absolute crowning experience in Vieques, one that keeps it in a class almost to itself is the bioluminescent bay.  In fact, this is listed in the 1000 Places to See Before You Die book.  It is a sight to behold.  It is best seen during the full or nearly full moon.  We went out with BioBay leaving after sundown.  Brace yourself
for a bumpy drive along a dirt road in an old school bus.  Again, like most things in Vieques it is worth the bumps and occasional car sickness - if you are prone to it like me - because the payoff is pretty unreal once you arrive.  After unloading, you head out into the darkness in an electric boat.  Darkness engulfs you and then, out of nowhere, a streaming bright light streaks by you in the water.  That's the bioluminescent dinoflagellates.  When disturbed by a large sound or a fish swimming quickly through the water they flash a bright light.  The boat then comes to a stop and all those willing can get in the brackish water full of tannins to swim amongst these dinoflagellates.  I admit, I was timid at the idea.  You can't see anything, I mean, this place is d-a-r-k.  However, I finally braved up and jumped in with Nick and the light flashed all around us upon entry.  You could even swim up under the electric pontoon boat where not even the moonlight could be seen.  I finally mustered up the courage to try it and I am so glad I did.  When my lifted my arms from under the water just to the surface, my arm lit up like I was wearing a sleeve covered with 1000s of the brightest diamonds.  I still clearly remember getting out of the water, climbing back into the boat and looking over at Nick who had hundreds of still sparkling dinoflagellates in his hair.  Just then he met my gaze and smiled the biggest grin.  Calling it an experience of a lifetime isn't really an understatement.  It is in danger though, like most wonderful places.  The dinoflagellates are greatly harmed by runoff and other fertilizer types.  So unchecked development and residential practices could slowly dim the bay until there is nothing bioluminescent left.  The world has several pockets of these so-called bio bays and many are already dimming rapidly if not completely.

It's a good reminder to me that there is a need to balance things.  Much of Vieques' draw is that it is quiet and off-the-beaten path.  In the past few years since our visit, I have begun to see it featured in travel magazines and even on Caribbean-focused travel planning websites.  I like to believe that through experience, by seeing a magical place with your own eyes makes you more likely to respect and find reverence for these special places...not just Vieques, but throughout the world.  While I know that's not always the case, I still hope that through encounters like these a spark is reignited in individuals; one that allows them to reconnect and rejuvenate, to look at things with different eyes.  To me, that is one of the greatest and most important aspects of travel.  To come back from somewhere new and find that I was the one touched, that I was the one who has grown, that I am one piece of the larger connected web of life in this great big world.

Happy Travels, friends.